I shared the first part our trip to the South of France, spent in the Côte d’Azur, in this recent post.
After a few days along the French Riviera we traded the sun-filled coastline for vineyards, hilltop villages, lavender fields and olive trees. Provence felt slower and richer and I loved it much more than I anticipated. We explored charming towns, tasted incredible food and wine, and wandered through some of the most picturesque spots in southern France.
Les Baux-de-Provence
First, the logistics: We picked up Jen, the last of our group to arrive, in Nice and drove just under three hours to Les Baux-de-Provence, our home base for the next week. Each day, we’d set out to explore a different nearby town—or sometimes two! Les Baux proved to be an excellent choice to be well-situated and I’d definitely recommend this to others.
Where We Stayed
Hôtel Baumanière
Our base for the week was this serene, five-star hideaway at the base of the dramatic Les Baux cliffs. With its shaded courtyards, two pools, and Michelin-starred dining, it felt like a true retreat. Our room was really spacious, making it easy to stay a while.
What We Loved
Staying in Les Baux gave us plenty of time to take in the sights and try nearby restaurants. Here are a few of our favorite things in Les Baux.
La Reine Jeanne
Just a short shuttle ride from Hôtel Baumanière, La Reine Jeanne was one of our favorite dining spots. It had amazing views of the rugged Alpilles mountains and fresh, seasonal dishes. We especially loved dining on the terrace as the sun was setting!
Wine Tasting and Dinner at Chateau Estoublon
A highlight of our stay was the evening spent at Château Estoublon and its the vineyards nearby. We started with a wine tasting at the Château, and then settled in for dinner at La Table de Estoublon. The atmosphere was casual but elegant, with great scenery and food that paired perfectly with the wines.
Shopping in Les Baux
The village of Les Baux itself is a charming place to spend time. We loved browsing the small shops scattered through the stone streets — from local art galleries to boutiques selling handmade soaps, lavender sachets, and ceramics. It’s the kind of shopping where you find way too many options to take home as a reminder of your time in Provence!
Olive Oil Tasting at Le Moulin de Castelas
For a true taste of Provence, we visited Le Moulin de Castelas for an olive oil tasting. The mill produces oils with distinct regional character, and sampling the different varieties was both educational and delicious. It’s a sensory experience that adds a new layer of appreciation to Provençal cuisine!
La Cabro d’Or
Set on the grounds of Hôtel Baumanière, La Cabro d’Or is an elegant yet relaxed Provençal dining experience. Surrounded by lush gardens and glowing lights, the restaurant serves seasonal dishes that celebrate the region’s flavors, from fresh Mediterranean seafood to fragrant herbs grown on the property. It’s the kind of place where every plate feels like a work of art, and the setting makes the meal even more unforgettable.
What We Did, AKA Where We Day-Tripped
Aix-en-Provence
About an hour from our hotel, Aix-en-Provence was somewhere we were really excited to visit.
Granet Museum
For art lovers, the Granet Museum was a must — they had a special short-running major retrospective on Cézanne that we were able to get tickets to. But their regular collection is quite impressive in its own right!
Lunch and Shopping on Cours Mirabeau
We started by exploring the Cours Mirabeau, a beautiful tree-lined avenue perfect for people-watching, shopping, and grabbing coffee or wine. The vibe is classic Provençal – elegant but unpretentious. Lunch was at Côté Cour, a perfect spot to soak in the Aix ambiance over great food. Afterwards, we shopped until we ran low on steam, made a quick stop to admire the historic Hôtel de Ville and its clock tower, and headed off mid-afternoon for Château La Coste.
Château La Coste
This place is a bit outside of Aix and worth the detour — it blew us away. It’s hard to describe, but is a stunning mix of contemporary design, a huge art collection spread across a vast estate that you can self-tour, and beautiful vineyards all around. We walked for about a mile enjoying the outdoor sculpture garden, then drank rosé on the patio before settling in for dinner at their open kitchen, fire-grilled Argentinian restaurant (which was amazing!) I’ll just show a couple of photos here as I plan to showcase the wines of Provence in more detail in a later post.
St. Remy
St. Remy was a true highlight, and may have been my overall favorite town! The pastel shutters, the trickle of fountains, the slow rhythm of the day. It’s like “one notch” down from Aix, and St-Rémy works its charm on you without even trying!
St. Remy’s Markets
We went on a Wednesday because this is St. Remy’s market day, and it is pure Provence — stalls piled with fresh cheeses, olives, lavender sachets, handmade soaps, linens, and baskets. We wandered around taking it all in and buying everything we thought we could possibly cram in our suitcases!
Shopping
After markets, more shopping! St. Remy is packed with the cutest boutiques that tempt you with French fashion, home décor, art, and local products. It’s extremely easy to lose track of time (and money!) in and out of all the shops.
Van Gogh Trail
This was really cool: we retraced the steps of Vincent van Gogh during his time in Saint-Rémy by following the Van Gogh Trail, which starts in the town center and leads toward the Saint-Paul de Mausole asylum where he stayed. Along the route, outdoor panels display reproductions of his paintings in the exact spots where he created them — giving you a vivid sense of how the Provençal landscape inspired his work.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Orange & Avignon
Our day in Châteauneuf-du-Pape was a deep dive into some of the Rhône Valley’s most celebrated wines, set against rolling vineyards and historic estates just 45 minutes from our hotel.
Wine Tasting
An afternoon here is a wine lover’s dream. We hopped between large and small, family-run domaines, sampling Rhone blends made from Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. We visited Château de Beaucastel, Domaine de la Janasse, and Château de la Gardine — again, just a couple of photos here as I will showcase the wines of Provence in more detail in a later post.
Lunch in Orange
We visited nearby Orange at lunch during our CnP wine tasting day. Recommended by the chef at Château La Coste, Lunch at La Grotte d’Auguste was inside a cave and a fun experience.
Dinner in Avignon at Première Édition
We ended the day with dinner in Avignon at Première Édition, where modern cuisine with Provençal influences provided a delicious finale to our wine-filled day.
Roussillon & Gordes
We day-tripped to Roussillon and Gordes in one (long) day. It was such a unique experience, as the two places could not have been more visually different.
Roussillon & Ochre Trail
Roussillon glows in shades of red, orange, and gold, thanks to its ochre cliffs. There is a short trail through the formations but we opted out given the heat, and still had a great view. Definitely, Sedona vibes.
Abbaye de Sénanque Lavender Visit
After that, of course, a visit to Provence wouldn’t be complete without experiencing its iconic lavender fields! The Abbaye de Sénanque offers one of the most picturesque spots to see lavender. In a quiet valley surrounded by rolling hills, this 12th-century Cistercian abbey is framed by the most gorgeous vibrant purple rows during summer’s lavender season.
Gordes
We hit Gordes after our lavender excursion for shopping and dinner. Perched on a hill with stone houses spilling down its slopes, Gordes literally looks like it was made to be photographed.
Clover Restaurant at Airelles Gordes
We loved dinner at this spot! Located within the Airelles Gordes resort, La Bastide, Clover Gordes was an intimate and charming dining experience on the terrace overlooking the Luberon valley.
Vaucluses’s Villages
Antiquing in L’Isle Sur La Sorgue
During our last day, we loved exploring L’Isle Sur La Sorgue, which we heard was the “Venice of France” due to being canal-side. This spot been the go-to for antique lovers in southern Europe for over 50 years. Every Sunday morning, the town comes alive with its famous antique market, filled with everything from vintage furniture to unique collectibles. We went on a Sunday, but even if you’re not there on market day, there are plenty of charming antique shops and galleries.
Riverside Walk in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse
Just a 15-minute drive from L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is another charming little village with a natural wonder, as well. The town is home to one of Europe’s most powerful springs, where the Sorgue River mysteriously emerges straight from the rock. The true source of the spring has never been discovered — adding a touch of intrigue to the already picturesque setting. We spent time wandering through the village and browsing the small shops. With the backdrop of the river and surrounding cliffs, it’s a great stop.
That’s a wrap on Provence! It’s hard to explain the beautiful, calming feeling that the South of France brought to me. It’s not just the landscapes or the food that leave an impression, but the way life slows down, inviting you to into each moment. Even the simplest experiences feel unforgettable here.
If you are considering a visit — do it! And, hopefully this post provides you with some recommendations!
Cheers!
xx—BB
Pingback: Provence & Rhône Wines // What to Know & What to Drink - The Modifica