Travel

Malta Travel Guide – Where to Stay, Eat & Explore

A few days exploring Valletta, Mdina, the Three Cities, and the Grand Harbour.

We recently spent a few days exploring Valletta, Mdina, the Three Cities, and the Grand Harbour. Malta is small enough to explore without feeling rushed but is rich in history. It somehow manages to blend medieval cities, crystal-clear water, incredible food, and one of the most beautiful natural harbors in Europe into a destination that’s incredibly unique – unlike anywhere I’ve visited.

We spent three nights based in Valletta before continuing on to Sicily, and if I were planning the trip again, I wouldn’t change a thing.

Malta’s Grand Harbour
The Modifica Guide to Malta

Exploring Malta

Where We Stayed

We stayed at Iniala Harbour House, overlooking Valletta’s Grand Harbour, which was a great choice. If you want a luxury stay in Valletta, this is an easy recommendation. The harbor views, central location, thoughtful design, and great service were all notable. Linking to our room, which was very spacious and comfortable.

Everything we wanted to explore was within walking distance, yet the hotel still felt tucked away from the crowds. A special shoutout for the made-to-order breakfast – eating overlooking the harbor each morning was a favorite memory.

Breakfast overlooking the harbour each morning

What We Did

Wandering Valletta

Fun fact: Valletta is the smallest capital in the EU. At just 0.24 square miles you can walk from one end of the city to the other in about 20 minutes! Yet, within that space are more than 300 historic monuments, making it one of the most concentrated collections of historic architecture in the world.

Valetta occupies a narrow peninsula, making it incredibly walkable. Nearly every street seems to end with a glimpse of the sea, while honey-colored limestone buildings, colorful balconies, churches, and quiet courtyards fill the rest of the landscape.

St. John’s Co-Cathedral is a can’t-miss attraction, with a stunning Baroque interior covered in gold leaf, ornate carvings, and painted ceilings. It also houses Caravaggio’s The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist – his only signed work – and a stunning marble floor made up of nearly 400 intricately inlaid tombstones honoring the Knights of St. John.

One of our other favorite stops was the Upper Barrakka Gardens, where panoramic views stretch across the Grand Harbour toward the Three Cities.

Outside our hotel on the Grand Harbour
St. John’s Cathedral
Streetscenes from Valetta
Colorful balconies everywhere
Always to a Hugo Spritz!
Upper Barrakka Gardens

Crossing the Grand Harbour

One experience I’d recommend to everyone is taking a traditional dgħajsa across the Grand Harbour to the Three Cities. It only lasts only a few minutes, but it gives you one of the best perspectives of Valletta’s skyline.

The Three Cities are:

  • Birgu – the oldest and most historic (the one we visited)
  • Senglea
  • Cospicua

Birgu is generally considered the highlight of the Three Cities and is the one most visitors prioritize if they only have time for one. It felt like discovering a completely different Malta just across the water. I would recommend visiting Fort St. Angelo, which is the stronghold of the harbour. It was also in Birgu that we came across one of our favorite restaurants of the entire trip, Terrone (more on that below).

Fort St. Angelo

Mdina: The Silent City

The following morning we ventured inland to Mdina, Malta’s medieval walled city.

Known as the Silent City, Mdina feels frozen in time. Cars are limited, the streets are quiet, and nearly every turn shows another beautiful limestone façade or centuries-old doorway. We spent a lot of time here just wandering around.

Just outside the gates, neighboring Rabat provides a slightly livelier contrast, making the two towns easy to combine into a relaxed half-day visit.

The famous main gate at Mdina – an iconic entrance, recognizable from films and TV, including Game of Thrones
Fontanella Tea Garden is a delightful dining experience in Mdina

An Afternoon by Boat

If I had to choose one experience that captured our trip to Malta best, it would be our private boat charter. We spent the afternoon exploring the island’s southern coastline, limestone cliffs, sea caves, and hidden coves. We went through the Crystal Lagoon, the Santa Maria Caves, and the Blue Lagoon. We ended with a golden-hour cruise past St. Paul’s Islands before returning to Valletta.

The water genuinely lives up to its reputation with shades of turquoise and deep blue that truly almost don’t seem real. Seeing Malta from the water gave us an entirely different appreciation for the island.


Where We Ate

One of our favorite things in Malta was the food scene. Despite its size, Valetta is a culinary heavyweight, with three Michelin-starred restaurants packed into its tiny historic center.

Some highlights included:

  • Harbour Club – Beautiful waterfront setting for a first evening in Malta
  • Terrone – Outstanding seafood in Birgu overlooking the Grand Harbour. One of our favorite lunches of the trip!
  • Palm Court Lounge – Amazing cocktails before dinner
  • Contessa – Elegant Mediterranean dinner inside The Phoenicia
  • Fifty Nine Republic – Creative modern Maltese cuisine with a lively atmosphere
Fifty Nine Republic in Valetta
At the beautiful Phoenicia hotel in Valetta
Contessa at the Phoenicia
Terrone in Birgu
Serving us fish caught that morning!

Things Not to Miss

  • Exploring and eating in Valetta
  • Watching the harbor from the Upper Barrakka Gardens
  • Taking a traditional dgħajsa across the Grand Harbour
  • Wandering the quiet streets of the Three Cities
  • Spending an afternoon in Mdina
  • Seeing Malta from the water

Best Photo Spots

  • Upper Barrakka Gardens
  • Valletta waterfront
  • Approaching the Three Cities by boat
  • Traditional balconies throughout Valletta
  • Mdina’s narrow stone streets
  • Grand Harbour from the dgħajsa
  • Blue Grotto coastline

With One More Day…

  • Spend it exploring Gozo. Everyone we spoke with recommended Malta’s quieter sister island for its rugged coastline and villages.

Planning Your Trip

  • Ideal Length: 3-4 nights
  • Best Home Base: Valletta
  • Best Time to Visit: Late April through early June or September through October for warm weather without peak summer crowds.
  • Pair It With: Sicily. Flights between Malta and Catania are quick and inexpensive, making the two destinations feel like a natural combination. There is also a ferry option.

Malta surprised me more than any destination we’ve visited recently. It felt almost otherworldly – the same sense I had when seeing Iceland – with gorgeous water, fascinating history, timeless architecture, and the most beautiful landscape of warm limestone. If you’re planning a Mediterranean itinerary, Malta is absolutely a destination worth including!

My guide to Malta – keep this for your next trip!

Happy travels!
xx—BB

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